Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Geisha hunting in Kyoto


While in Kyoto, Japan, what piqued my interest most were the mysterious geishas. Kyoto is known for it's enigmatic geishas. This is an ancient tradition that has been in Japan for decades. 
First, I needed to get my facts straight. A geisha is a traditional, female, Japanese entertainer. They sing, dance, serve and converse with their customers. However, they are not prostitutes. This is a common misconception since they once were many years ago. 
This is a geisha (not my picture)
I saw many ladies rambling around the streets of Kyoto in traditional geisha dresses. These are not real geishas. Most were tourists dressed as geishas. It wasn't until I talked with the owner of my hostel that I learned what a real geisha looks like. They wear this same traditional dress, but wear their hair toppled up in a bun on the top of their head and adorn it with a headpiece. Their faces are painted white and their lips are bright red. They wear raised wooden sandals and are never married. If they decide to marry, they will retire. 
Now that I knew what I was looking for, I was prepared to go geisha hunting! The prime time to spot a glimpse of a geisha is between 10-11pm, when they're getting done with work. So I'm told. 
I'm also told the chances of spying a geisha are slim. 
I leave my hostel at 10 sharp.
As I meander through the dark alleyways, I pass by wooden houses that have red and white illuminated lanterns hanging outside. 
I'm in the Gion district. This area has the reputation as being very expensive, with frequent customers being politicians and powerful businessmen. I try not to look too suspicious, but my eyes are peeled. I was just on an innocent nighttime stroll (mmmmm hhmmm).  Passing by these wooden houses, I hear voices and laughter from a man and women seeping from the windows. "What are they doing in there?", I desperately wanted to know.
In order to have a geisha provide her services to you, you need to belong to a club. A club that scrupulously screens it's applicants. A club that is extremely expensive. I imagined these male members to be filthy rich, single businessmen that would head to the geisha house after a hard day at the office. 
I was the only person on the small, silent street and the darkness frightened me slightly. I was determined to see one of these geishas! If it meant lurking around in dark alleyways, so be it! The only sound I heard was the clicking of my sandals on the wet stone pavement. I was transported back in time as I imagined what these very streets used to look like hundreds of years ago. A slight drizzle of rain contributed to the sly feeling of my doings. My senses were heightened and I was keen to any type of movement. A stray cat, a waiter smoking outside, and a lady walking her dog were all false alarms. I had traipsed through 4 long blocks of ancient Japanese buildings, with no geisha sightings. I remained optimistic. 
The rain started to come down heavier and I decided to head back to the hostel. I had not seen an elusive geisha. I was bummed, but I never gave up hope. I quickened my pace, put my hood up and stuffed my hands into my pockets for warmth. 
Suddenly, about 20 feet ahead, I see the wooden door to one of the houses open. The yellow light illuminated the street and I saw a man with a white karate-looking uniform walk out with an umbrella and open the door of an awaiting taxi. Then I see a drunk Japanese man in a business suit stumble to the car, waving goodbye and bowing to someone I couldn't see. Then.... are you ready for this??!..... I see a GEISHA float outside just beyond the doorway. I couldn't believe my eyes! She was poised, prim and proper. She looked eerily supernatural with her ghostly white painted face and red lips. Her elbows were extended out and her hands were in a perfect prayer position. She nodded her head oh-so-slightly and the silver ornaments adorning her head sparkled in the dimly lit alleyway. Her jet black hair was piled neatly on top of her head. My eyes grew big and my jaw dropped. I couldn't believe what I was seeing! I felt like I shouldn't be there. This was the dark side of the geishas. 
As I approached the scene, the drunk man was continuing to bow and thank the geisha under the umbrella held by the "karate" man. I saw a hint of annoyance on her face as she said goodbyes to her happy customer. I tried to pass by nonchalantly but couldn't resist the opportunity to stare at this rare sighting. I came a mere 10 feet from them as I shuffled past slowly. My eyes glued to them, my head turned as I followed them. I caught the eye of the geisha and she smiled mysteriously at me. Each facial expression was slow and magical. She looked like an angel. She had dedicated her entire life to this impressive image. It felt like I was in a movie. I smiled back shyly and watched as the man finally succumbed to the destiny of his taxi ride. The door slammed shut and the taxi whizzed by me. The geisha rushed back inside, looking relieved. 
"Who was that man? A famous politician?", I wondered as I jovially skipped back to my hostel in amazement. Whoever it was, it looked like he had a good time!
My persistence had paid off and I finally saw a real geisha. The chances of seeing them are so rare! I'm such a lucky girl :)

No comments:

Post a Comment