What do you think of when you think of Mongolia? I think of brown skinned, wind shaped faces of Mongolian men, sitting proudly on top of a galloping horse, riding through beautiful mountain landscapes dotted with yurts.
Mongolians are expert horsemen. Don't ever challenge a Mongolian to a horse riding contest. Because you'll lose. They begin riding at the age of 4. I'm told sometimes even at the tender age of 2. Their riding skill are phenomenal. They hop off and on their horses and trot along like they've been doing it their entire life. Errr, never mind, I guess they have. Once, I watched open-mouthed as a horse attempted to buck off his rider, arching his back and jumping wildly in the air, just like the picture on the Wyoming license plate. I've never seen this before. The rider held on tightly until this horse was over her PMS and then trotted off nonchalantly. I was impressed. If that was me, I would have undoubtedly ended up with a broken arm.They passionately care for their horses, as they would care for their children. The amount of time they spend on a horse is apparent in the bowed cowboy legs of some locals.
me and Johannes |
Some of the villages looked very similar to the small villages of Alaska. The locals here are very poor. I would rather be a nomad if I lived in Mongolia. But even the nomads have hard times. In the winter, temperatures can drop as low as -40 F, causing their livestock to freeze or starve to death. In turn, these extreme temperatures force the nomadic Mongolians out of their peaceful country life. They must move to the capital of Ulan Bator. Here, unemployment rates are high, which causes UB to be a little dangerous. Pick pocketing is ever present. It's a sad situation. From the locals, I'm told the ghettos of Ulan Bator are very dangerous.
The country side is relatively safe. The greatest threat is probably the drunks. In some small villages, I saw the occasional drunk staggering man. At one village, I was entertained by a drunk man as he fell on his face every 2 feet, tripping over his robe and drooling down his chin. A 2 liter bottle of beer costs $1. Vodka is also readily available and cheap due to the close proximity to Russia.
one of the villages |
A women came out of the yurt with a plastic container and squeezed methodically on the goat's teats. White liquid squirted out, dripping messily over her dirty hands into the plastic container. She would use this unpasteurized milk to make many different things, including the salty tea she offered us. Personally, I'm not a fan of this tea. It's milky and it's salty. Ewww. Each time we entered a family's ger, we were handed a small bowl filled with this tea. I would smile pleasantly and pretend to take a sip, then when they weren't looking, I'd make Johannes drink it. He couldn't get enough of the stuff.
Some nights were downright freezing cold. I felt sorry for the animals as they tried to huddle together for warmth. From the look on their faces, they weren't having much fun. Actually, they looked miserable. I wanted to give them all a big bear hug to keep them warm. I knew the temp in April was much more comfortable than the temps in January, although it already felt unlivable. The cold didn't seem to bother the Mongolians, they continued to work like bees around the ranch.
working hard in frigid temps |
giving shots to baby goats |
hardcore dude |
The baby goats were kept in cardboard boxes inside the gers. They were so cute! The families were always eager to push a baby goat into my arms. I oohed and awed over them as they sucked on my fingers. Their umbilical cords were still attached and wet on their bellies. Some were wearing little jackets. They cuddled up closely to each other and each one had it's own distinct cry. It was so sweet to see the Mongolians caring so passionately for their animals. They've had years of experience in this ranching business, and it definitely shows.
Lucky you just happened to have earplugs, right ;)
ReplyDeleteIt's really cool to read this after a while. Great writing, Rachel!
-Johannes