Filipino photo shoot

I was excited to see the Philippines because I was yet to meet anyone that had something bad to say about the islands. "Amazing" was the usual word used to describe the Eastern Asian country. I've had the pleasure of working with MANY Filipinos in the medical field. I find them all to be very sweet, competent and hard working. Some of the best nurses I've encountered. When they found out that the Philippines were part of my itinerary, they were extremely delighted and quick to offer helpful suggestions. I greatly appreciated their advice and, for this reason, barely did any research on the country before I left. They were locals and knew their country better than the writer of any guide book. They talked so highly of their mother land. Now I see why.....  

The first peculiar sight I saw when I left the airport in Manila by taxi was a vehicle called a jeepney.  A jeepney is a long, bus-like jeep with 2 long passenger benches inside on each side. They're big, bold and obnoxious with bright, colorful designs and images such as Jesus and the Virgin Mary intricately painted on the sides. 

90% of Filipinos are Christian. It's been almost a week, and each time I see one of these Jeepneys cruising down the road, I still giggle. This vibrant vehicle can often be seen stuffed to the gills with locals, even hitching a ride on the roof as it sputters by, belching black smoke. Sometimes there are squealing pigs in wicker baskets strapped to the back. 

The other popular form of transportation in the Philippines is the tricycle. Simply put, it's a rickshaw. A little metal house with a seat, constructed over a motorbike. Each one has a name painted on the front. Besides the fact that the drivers try to charge foreigners 5 times more than the locals, they're pretty fun to ride. 

I met Lina, from Bulgaria, in Manila. We discovered we were both traveling to Puerto Princessa, Sabang and then to El Nido so we decided to experience the travels together. 

Once we arrived in Sabang, we thought it would be a good idea to spend the afternoon lazing on the beach and work on our tans. I went shopping for a new sarong and met Lina on the beach about an hour later. Being the only tourists laying out on the idyllic beach, we felt pretty lucky. There was only one problem: I had managed to lose any sort of tan I may have picked up in Southeast Asia and was now gloriously glowing white. I had carefully protected my skin while in Korea and Japan, just like the locals did. When in Rome. In the Philippines, I'm quite an attraction with my albino hide. I thought I better get rid of this pasty skin pronto. Lina was nice and bronzed with her Eastern European skin. Not more than 5 minutes after carefully spreading my sarong on the sand and situating my head on my purse for a pillow, we have our first curious visitors. There was a group of Filipinos, all wearing the same hunter green shirt, symbolizing the tour company they were doing a tour with.

It couldn't have been more obvious that they were taking our photo. They stood a mere 5 feet from us, with a nearly empty beach, and pretended to take pictures of each other with the beautiful ocean in the background. One by one, they took turns taking pictures with us in it. They finally mustered enough courage to approach us and ask permission for a photo. I merrily obliged, but Lina was less enthusiastic about it. After one picture, she retreated to the ocean for safety. I, on the other hand, reveled in the attention. I smiled warmly and laughed with the Filipinos. They asked me where I was from and seemed pleased with my answer. I wanted to give Americans a good name. 

They shook my hand after each picture. I felt like a famous person. After I posed in my bikini with one Filipino man, just like in China, there was instantly a long line-up of hopeful locals. I decided to have fun with it. I knew I wouldn't have this celebrity status for much longer since my trip was coming to an end. Soon I would be on a beach in Hawaii and no one would think twice about it. There were at least 100 Filipinos in this group. I had the full attention of my audience and I didn't want to disappoint as their entertainer. I pretended to kiss one man on the cheek during a photo and the crowd erupted in laughter and hoots and hollers. After that, each one would request that I kiss him on the cheek for his picture. I was causing quite a scene, but it was all in fun. They absolutely loved it, and I was glad to make them happy. I thought the whole situation was hilarious. Hmmm... I wonder where all those pictures will end up?

It really cracks me up when people want to take my picture, and I'm more than happy to pose with the Filipinos since they are such lively characters. I just love them. They are really good people. I've found them to be extremely endearing with their zest for life. Life is fun for them and they don't take many things too seriously. Their sweet smile and winks confirm this mantra. 

Sumo: fat men in g-strings

When I learned I would be in Tokyo at precisely the time that a sumo wrestling tournament would take place, I was ecstatic! They take place only about 3 times a year. How could I have gotten so lucky?! There was no way I was going to pass up the opportunity to be a spectator of the national sport of Japan. 
This is a big deal to the Japanese. 
I decided to attend the last day of the 15 day tournament, that way I could see the final winning match. 

Now, the only way to get a reservation for the remaining seats was to join a tour. So, I forked over a lot of cash and found myself with a comfy seat in the sports arena. Our guide, Taki, was very informative and I was glad I paid for a tour to have access to his wealth of information, if anything. 
From the comfort of my box seat, I watched as 20 different fat men charged at each other and attempted to throw each other out of the ring. 
The rules are simple: 
1. If any part of your body, besides the soles of your feet, touch the mat inside the ring, you lose. 
2. If the soles of your feet, or any other body part touches the outside of the ring, you lose. 
3. No hair pulling, biting, choking, eye gouging or cheap crotch shots. 

Buns of steel

Before entering the ring, each sumo wrestler grabs a handful of salt and tosses it ritually onto the floor of the ring. Salt symbolizes purity. 
They raise their trunks for legs high up in the air and dramatically stomp it on the ground. I'm sure if I had a closer seat I'd be able to feel the ground shake. This is to ward off evil spirits. I snickered as I watched their pudgy legs jiggle from the impact. Their g-string uniforms left their butt cheeks audaciously exposed. Next, they squat and put their hands in the air to show they have no weapons. 
Here, I demonstrate the move:

do not attempt in a mini skirt

I was surprised to learn that not all the wrestlers were Japanese. There were other nationalities such as Hawaiian, Mongolian, Russian, Estonia, Brazilian, Georgian and even Egyptian. However, the Japanese predominated the event.
The obese sumo's all had their hair pulled into a tied ponytail on top of their heads. Our guide told us that they have a special hairdresser that does their hair for tournaments. They can't be bothered for such a thing, you know ;)

It was such a unique experience to be a witness to the oldest sport of Japan and allowed me to gain insight to Japanese customs. I watched the Japanese as they really got into it all.
Eating and drinking is allowed inside the stadium. This includes alcohol. So you could yell wildly at the match with a mouthful of popcorn and wash it down with a draft beer. It was like a baseball game!

Excitement grew as the last 2 wrestlers stood face to face for the final showdown. I was on the edge of my seat. A Japanese vs a Mongolian. I know how tough the Mongolians are, so I had a hunch that the Mongol would be the victor.  It took only a few seconds for the winner to throw his opponent on the ground. The crowd went wild! The 37 year-old Mongolian was the champion!!
What's the prize for all this blubber bouncing, you might wonder? The winner gets $100,000. On top of that, the average monthly salary for a sumo wrestler is $5,000. Which I thought was pretty shabby for living in Japan. 

The only thing I regret about the day was forgetting to bring my camera with a good zoom. So, my apologies for the crappy photography. 
Here's the video of the last match, when the Mongolian trumped over the Japanese:

Geisha hunting in Kyoto

While in Kyoto, Japan, what piqued my interest most were the mysterious geishas. Kyoto is known for it's enigmatic geishas. This is an ancient tradition that has been in Japan for decades. 
First, I needed to get my facts straight. A geisha is a traditional, female, Japanese entertainer. They sing, dance, serve and converse with their customers. However, they are not prostitutes. This is a common misconception since they once were many years ago. 

This is a geisha (not my picture)

I saw many ladies rambling around the streets of Kyoto in traditional geisha dresses. These are not real geishas. Most were tourists dressed as geishas. It wasn't until I talked with the owner of my hostel that I learned what a real geisha looks like. They wear this same traditional dress, but wear their hair toppled up in a bun on the top of their head and adorn it with a headpiece. Their faces are painted white and their lips are bright red. They wear raised wooden sandals and are never married. If they decide to marry, they will retire. 
Now that I knew what I was looking for, I was prepared to go geisha hunting! The prime time to spot a glimpse of a geisha is between 10-11pm, when they're getting done with work. So I'm told. 
I'm also told the chances of spying a geisha are slim. 
I leave my hostel at 10 sharp.
As I meander through the dark alleyways, I pass by wooden houses that have red and white illuminated lanterns hanging outside. 

I'm in the Gion district. This area has the reputation as being very expensive, with frequent customers being politicians and powerful businessmen. I try not to look too suspicious, but my eyes are peeled. I was just on an innocent nighttime stroll (mmmmm hhmmm).  Passing by these wooden houses, I hear voices and laughter from a man and women seeping from the windows. "What are they doing in there?", I desperately wanted to know.
In order to have a geisha provide her services to you, you need to belong to a club. A club that scrupulously screens it's applicants. A club that is extremely expensive. I imagined these male members to be filthy rich, single businessmen that would head to the geisha house after a hard day at the office. 
I was the only person on the small, silent street and the darkness frightened me slightly. I was determined to see one of these geishas! If it meant lurking around in dark alleyways, so be it! The only sound I heard was the clicking of my sandals on the wet stone pavement. I was transported back in time as I imagined what these very streets used to look like hundreds of years ago. A slight drizzle of rain contributed to the sly feeling of my doings. My senses were heightened and I was keen to any type of movement. A stray cat, a waiter smoking outside, and a lady walking her dog were all false alarms. I had traipsed through 4 long blocks of ancient Japanese buildings, with no geisha sightings. I remained optimistic. 

The rain started to come down heavier and I decided to head back to the hostel. I had not seen an elusive geisha. I was bummed, but I never gave up hope. I quickened my pace, put my hood up and stuffed my hands into my pockets for warmth. 
Suddenly, about 20 feet ahead, I see the wooden door to one of the houses open. The yellow light illuminated the street and I saw a man with a white karate-looking uniform walk out with an umbrella and open the door of an awaiting taxi. Then I see a drunk Japanese man in a business suit stumble to the car, waving goodbye and bowing to someone I couldn't see. Then.... are you ready for this??!..... I see a GEISHA float outside just beyond the doorway. I couldn't believe my eyes! She was poised, prim and proper. She looked eerily supernatural with her ghostly white painted face and red lips. Her elbows were extended out and her hands were in a perfect prayer position. She nodded her head oh-so-slightly and the silver ornaments adorning her head sparkled in the dimly lit alleyway. Her jet black hair was piled neatly on top of her head. My eyes grew big and my jaw dropped. I couldn't believe what I was seeing! I felt like I shouldn't be there. This was the dark side of the geishas. 

As I approached the scene, the drunk man was continuing to bow and thank the geisha under the umbrella held by the "karate" man. I saw a hint of annoyance on her face as she said goodbyes to her happy customer. I tried to pass by nonchalantly but couldn't resist the opportunity to stare at this rare sighting. I came a mere 10 feet from them as I shuffled past slowly. My eyes glued to them, my head turned as I followed them. I caught the eye of the geisha and she smiled mysteriously at me. Each facial expression was slow and magical. She looked like an angel. She had dedicated her entire life to this impressive image. It felt like I was in a movie. I smiled back shyly and watched as the man finally succumbed to the destiny of his taxi ride. The door slammed shut and the taxi whizzed by me. The geisha rushed back inside, looking relieved. 
"Who was that man? A famous politician?", I wondered as I jovially skipped back to my hostel in amazement. Whoever it was, it looked like he had a good time!
My persistence had paid off and I finally saw a real geisha. The chances of seeing them are so rare! I'm such a lucky girl :)

Japanese charm school

The Japanese are lovely people. Probably the loveliest I've met in all my time spent gallivanting around the world. I'm convinced they've all secretly attended charm school, and graduated with honors.
Their flawless etiquette earns them a lot of points with me.
They adhere strictly to rules, even if there is no punishment in breaking the rule. For example, in the subway, there are signs discouraging passengers from talking on their cell phones. In America, if we had such a "rule", I could just imagine, there would be some loud mouth redneck that would be babbling obnoxiously loud on his phone. Not in Japan! EVERYONE follows this rule. The subway is dead silent as they sit as quiet as a church mouse.

snuck this one with my iPhone

I watch the demure Japanese get on the subway, sit down and are quickly hunched over with their eyes closed and their head bobbing to each bump and bolt. Just as I'm trying to figure out if they've actually managed to fall asleep in a millisecond, the next stop is announced, the door pops open, they jump out of their seat and off they go. Guess not. 
Waiting for the subway, I follow suit and get in line in orderly fashion like the other Japanese. Can you believe they actually form a line to get on the subway?! This is monumental!
Jay-walking is also highly frowned upon. Even if there are no cars to be seen for miles, if the red pedestrian light is on, you will never see a Japanese cross the road. 
I imagine it's a breeze to be a teacher in Japan. Even the children are well behaved. 

Tokyo's streets are filled with men in business suits and women in dressy attire. A lot of girls wear very, very skimpy skirts. It's popular in Japan to wear a school girl uniform, even when you haven't been a student for over 15 years. Borderline disturbing. Ironically, their chests are almost always covered. I guess they flaunt their assets. Makes sense. 

one of the many temples in Kyoto

Even though hardly any of them speak English, they will do their very best to help me when I ask for directions. They patiently study my map for a while before I relieve them of their suffering and say, "it's ok, arrigoto". I realize they don't speak English, but they're too polite to say no when I ask for help. They press their hands together and give me a bow as we part ways. Seriously, do you think anyone in L.A. would do that? 
This surge of manners I'm exposed to is like a breath of fresh air to me after traveling through such abrasive countries such as Vietnam. The Japanese are a class of their own. The most sophisticated of all Asians, in my opinion. 
Eating on the run is also shunned. Even if I'm starving, I always wait until I'm back at the hostel to eat. Or, I stop at a noodle shop owned by a cute husband and wife team, show them my piece of paper that says "vegetarian" in Japanese, and enjoy a big bowl of yumminess. Like this....

They cracked a raw egg in it, which cooked from the hot broth

In case you haven't heard, Japan is ridiculously expensive. So save your pennies if you plan to visit. Don't say I didn't warn you.
On the bright side, you will be spoiled rotten with the heated toilet seats. I have yet to sit my bum on a cold toilet seat in Japan. These hybrid johns are even equipped with a button that produces a loud water noise to drown out those embarrassing bathroom sounds. I've even seen buttons for raising and lowering the seat and buttons for a bidet. Using the baño feels like a 5-star luxury.
If you come to Japan for just one reason, come for the heated toilet seats. Just kidding. 

Beyond the hello kitty, sumo, sushi and geisha's, the Japanese are really interesting people when you get to know them. Speaking with the English speaking Japanese I've encountered, I witness their gentle spirits shining brightly. It's like zen traveling in Japan, everyone is so calm and polite. I show them the respect that they give to me and find myself behaving like them. I think back to my time in Morocco and remember how frazzled I was there. The abrasiveness, the rude manners and lack of respect were a deadly combination. Treat others as you wish to be treated. Japan is the complete opposite of Morocco. I bet the Japanese are horrified when they travel to Morocco. Maybe the Moroccans should take a few pointers from the Japanese. Maybe they should attend their charm school. 
In conclusion, Japan is a country like no other, and I'm totally diggin' it here.

Hachiko, the wonder dog

In Tokyo, one of the more popular tourist attractions is a bronze statue of an incredible Akita dog named Hachiko. It's located at the Shibuya subway station. This story pulled hard at my heartstrings and I wanted to share it with you. 

This story dates back to the 1920's. 

Hachiko was owned by a professor who worked at the University of Tokyo. Everyday when the professor returned from work, Hachiko was faithfully waiting for him at the subway station. Everyday. He even knew what time to be there. (dogs are so smart!)

Sadly, one day, his owner did not return. He suffered from a stroke while at the university and subsequently died. Being the loyal dog he was, Hachiko continued to wait at the subway station.... for the next 9 years!

Ok, if you're not teary eyed yet, somethings wrong with you. 

Locals began to notice that Hachiko was incessantly hanging around the subway station. Some had seen him with the professor when he was alive. The loving locals fed Hachiko at the station until the day he died, 9 years later.

His remarkable loyalty made the Japanese fall in love with him and he was morphed him into a canine celebrity. Today, he is the national symbol of loyalty in Japan. There are even stories and books written about this unbelievable dog. 

After Hachiko's death, an autopsy determined that he had died from cancer. His body was stuffed and is on display in a museum in Tokyo. 

Just another testimony to the awesomeness of dogs. 

Have I mentioned, I LOVE DOGS!!!

Hachiko

Hey, Seoul sister!

Korea was a sociable time for me. I'm fortunate enough to know 5 different friends in Seoul, and was able to meet up with all of them while I was here! Marimon, whom I worked with at Tripler, the army hospital in Hawaii, is now stationed here in Seoul. We had a wonderful dinner out one night and I met her husband and adorable son. We reminisced about our time in Hawaii and I felt a strong sense of nostalgia for the tiny islands in the Pacific. But I knew I'd be back in a months time. 

I mentioned Hannah in my last post, who showed me a traditional Korean restaurant. 
I also met up with Sunny, Jin and Yoon. I met these 3 Koreans in Morocco. They are so pleasant to be around. So light-hearted. They brought me to a traditional tea house in the trendy college district and taught me all about this tea drinking business. I have to say, it was the best tea I've ever had in my life. I'm not just saying that. Sunny ordered for me since the menu was in Korean. The waiter brings me a huge cup, that could easily pass for a soup bowl, that's filled with a sweet citrus tea. On the bottom of this barrel of goodness was a ton of lemon peels, which tasted like they had drowned in an ocean of sugar water. It was SO yummy! The peelings alone were enough to qualify for a meal!
If I lived in Seoul, you could find me sipping tea at this establishment on a daily basis. With a big smile on my face :)

Yoon, me, Jin and Sunny

It was comforting to see some familiar faces, considering I haven't seen one face I've known for several months. Almost as comforting as that bowl of tea....

What else have I been doing?
I had acupuncture done for my lower back pain. Hold on.... yep, the pain is still there. At least I tried. Acupuncture was actually slightly painful. First they slapped a physiotherapy pad on my lower back that felt like a thousand needles assaulting me without my permission. They stuck those suction cups on my back again too, so now I have another set of huge hideous hickey's. I think the old ones are still visible. I was momentarily turned into a pin cushion as they plucked needles into my scalp, between my fingers, my inner elbow, lower back, outer knees and inner ankles. I intermittently switched back and forth between ticklish laughter and "youch!" 
Well, now I can say I've tried it. Acupuncture worked miracles on my dog, but I'm not sure if it had the same effect on me. Maybe I feel an eentsy bit better....


I've been walking my feet off all over Seoul and also navigating my way around the city using the fabulous subway. It's simple and clean. It's civilized, unlike China, where they physically squish you into the subway cars. I'm serious. And I'm laughing the entire time because I can't believe it's happening. Oh, China....

traditional tea

I've also been keeping my promise to myself by running about every other night. This in itself has created more adventures to add to the list. As I was bee-bopping through the back streets of Seoul one night, I got caught up in the local happenings as I watched Korean life whiz by. Locals eating at hot pot restaurants, walking their cute miniature dogs (it seems like everyone here has one), moseying with their loved ones and kids. I usually never get lost, but I was distracted this night. I stopped to ask for directions from a boy on a bicycle. He stammered over his nonexistent English and I knew it was hopeless. A family in a parked car noticed my predicament and asked if they could help. I told them where I was trying to go and they told me it was several miles away. "Geez, I really got in a good workout", I thought. 


They insisted on giving me a ride. I obliged, but only because my gut feeling wasn't throwing up any red flags. The man's wife was holding their newborn in her arms in the front seat (no car seat, this no longer shocks me) and his elderly mother was in the back seat. I didn't see any present threat. I slipped in the back seat next to the old granny. She stared at me the entire time with a big, friendly, wrinkly smile and twinkly eyes. My skin and hair was wet with sweat. I slid around on the leather seats as we rounded corners and hoped I didn't stink too bad in the enclosed space. 

Yoon pouring the tea

We had a nice conversation on the way to my destination. They couldn't believe I was traveling for over 8 months. They told me I must be rich. I said no, I'm really not. Rich with memories, yes. 
I thanked them as I hopped out of the car. They told me to be careful. They were like my caring family away from home. They were contributing to my positive feelings toward Koreans. My heart was warmed by their kindness and I smiled as I started to run again into the night.
If I had to describe Koreans in one word, it would be: SWEET. They are so polite. They are also very shy, which I find cute.


Korea is pretty low key, which is maybe why I feel a little under stimulated here.  I like to travel to places that challenge me. Places that throw me completely off kilter and knock my socks off. Exotic places! Korea is ordinary and organized. There's absolutely no WOW factor. It's bland. If Korea was a food, it would be a boring old potato. I've realized that, as chaotic as they are, I really prefer traveling in third world countries. The reason why I love India so much is because it's so extremely different from anything I've ever known. (And because I love the people). It's entertaining, shocking and fun. 


However, I'm thankful for my time in Korea and happy I was able to meet up with my old friends. BUT, I'm tapping my foot waiting for my plane to take me to the next destination: Japan!

Seoul food

One of the guests at my hostel is a chef. He tells me he's "eating his way through Asia." I've heard this expression before and could never relate to it. I like to eat, but my life doesn't revolve around it. Sure, I'll definitely try as much local food as I can, it's part of the culture, but its not something that I get excited about. 
Even though I wouldn't classify myself as a "foodie", I thought some of you might appreciate a little firsthand insight on Korean food. I'll be your personal food reporter. Coming to you straight from Seoul!

Korea has a gaggle of goofy foods. 
Walking through the streets of Seoul, I see a mix of unidentifiable edible items for sale.
Deep fried this and deep fried that. 
Long spiral shaped potatoes.
Every kind of dried fish you can think of. 
Waffles galore, even fish shaped waffles filled with red beans. Yes, RED BEANS! They are dee-lish!!

These silly creations were called "walking sticks"....

Everywhere you look in Seoul, there's something just waiting for you to eat it. In the subway, as you breeze through the hallways to catch the train, pleasant smells drift through the air and find their way to your nose. Freshly baked waffles, sweets and coffee....
There's an endless amount of coffee shops in Seoul. Surprisingly, the coffee is exceptionally tasty here.


Koreans have a strange obsession with eating peculiar seafood. The weirder, the better. Apparently. Octopus, squid, eel, oysters, clams, snails, crab, calamari, you name it. They even eat the octopus while it's still alive! There are horror stories of Koreans dying because of this food fetish after the octopus sucks onto their throat and causes them to suffocate. 

Here's some pics I've snapped on the street of Seoul. Food for the Seoul...
(Disclaimer: Since identifying strange food is not my forte, I can't tell you exactly what's in these pictures.)

dumplings

sugar candy

bugs

???

dried octopus

Korean pizza

I don't eat foods that have eyes or breathe. Some say it's a pity, but really, it's quite alright. I'll taste test anything else. One thing I was glad I tasted was something called tapoki. It's like a thick chewy noodle swimming in a spicy red sauce. It takes forever to masticate these chewy monsters, but I kinda like them. Actually, I love them!

Tapoki!

Of course, I can't talk about Korean food without mentioning the famous kimchi, which is essentially fermented vegetables (usually cabbage) smothered in a spicy red sauce. The cabbage is left to ferment for about 6 months to a year, sometimes longer. 

hoards of kimchi

I met up with my Korean friend, Hannah, whom I met while I was in Naples, Italy, where we stuffed ourselves silly with pizza pies and gelato. And didn't feel the least bit guilty about it. 

Hannah and I. I like her shirt :)

In Seoul, she brought me to a restaurant to have a real traditional Korean meal. One where you sit on the floor. Awesome.

She ordered from the Korean menu and soon the chef was bringing out little plates filled with all kinds of vegetables. The plates kept coming, and coming, and coming! Soon there was a feast fit for a king in front of us! 

AFTER we were done eating!

There was a small amount of meat and fish thrown into the mix, which I left for Hannah. We were each given a small metal dish filled with white rice. The rest of the food was meant to be shared between us. For some inexplicable reason, Koreans use metal chopsticks. I already have a hard time using these utensils when they're wooden, so the metal chopsticks are nearly impossible for me to use. I stabbed at the food awkwardly as Hannah elegantly picked up each item with her chopsticks. Sitting on the floor barefoot, we chatted while we sampled each dish. We ate until our bellies stretched uncomfortably. I looked at the spread of food left and it looked like we hadn't even touched anything! 


After our feast, we waddled through a couple local markets and watched as locals ate all kinds of funky seafood, meat and veggies....

If you're a foodie, Asia is definitely the place to be. One thing is for sure, you will never go hungry in Seoul!